Backstreet brews

Beer lovers who nip down the backstreets of Sydney’s inner west are in for a refreshing surprise. There’s a thriving craft beer scene going on—and a slew of microbreweries pumping out award-winning beers.

Hidden down laneways and back alleys, these places are beer garden, taproom and friendly neighbourhood backyard all rolled into one. Often there’s a high rotation of food trucks stationed outside and the hot sizzle and smell of food in the air.

Some have a pool table (hello, Grifter), giant jenga (Wayward) and theme nights (I’m looking at you, Batch). Others have an upcycled retro-chic feel, local art and good music.

Young Henrys puts out funky seasonal beers. Wayward Brewery Company holds Sunday afternoon acoustic sessions with local singer-songwriters. All have a great community vibe where everyone and their pooch is welcome.

In the past five years, the number of microbreweries in Australia has doubled to around 400, creating an industry that’s worth about $400 million a year. Sydney’s inner west is a hotspot—in particular, the suburbs of Marrickville, Enmore and Camperdown—places that are easy to get to by either bus or train.

Image: Willie the Boatman

Here you’ll find the likes of Young Henrys and their 2014 award-winning Real Ale, Batch Brewery, Wayward Brewery and Grifter Brewing Company.

Willie the Boatman, a low-key brewery next door to an axe-throwing joint in Mary Street, St Peters, has the Albo, a corn ale brew named after local MP, Anthony Albanese. Marrickville newcomer Wildflower is an industrial-chic cellar door in a former metal foundry with craft beers made using wild yeasts from NSW.

From Friday to Sunday, Dave’s Brewery Tours take groups on a Hipsters and Hops journey through the inner-west. It’s a day-trip that includes three microbreweries (two in the inner-west, one in the Rocks) and lunch in a pub. But you could just as easily head out on a DIY tour, one that also takes in the inner-west’s fantastic street art.

A few tips before setting out. Go with a group—a brewery tour is always more fun with friends. Start early to fit more in. Take advantage of tasting paddles—they’re good bang for your buck and a great way to taste the brewery’s range. If you can, schedule a brewery tour for an interesting behind-the-scenes look at how the beer on tap is made. And pace yourself. Drink water between beers and be sure to eat—an easy task with so many food trucks about.

Food trucks and beer. Image: Billy Zammit

In June, five of the inner-west’s biggest microbreweries—Wayward, Grifter, Batch, Willie the Boatman and Young Henrys—joined forces to form a new alliance: the Inner West Brewery Association (IWBA). There are plans to stage a new event, the Inner West Beer Festival, in early 2018, and talk of a ‘beer glass’ sign-posted brewery walk. But first, the group is keen to promote the area and cement the inner west’s place as the Craft Beer Capital of Australia.

Association president Peter Philip, of Wayward Brewing at Camperdown, said the new association plans to work with local, state and federal governments to cut red tape and promote economic growth.

“The five founding association members believe that Sydney, particularly the inner west area, is well on its way to being considered one of the great beer cities of the world as cities such as Portland, San Diego and Munich are today,” he said.

With more than a dozen microbreweries in operation and many more in the planning stage – the inner-west could soon be home to around 10 microbreweries within a five-kilometre stretch – and 20 all told by next year. That’s enough to make even the most jaded hipster smile.